Camber is the top of the tire leaning toward quad (negative camber) or away from quad (positive camber) – as suspension components and tires flex and chassis roles – the tire will lean or ride up on its edge which causing handling issues – ideally, we want the maximum foot print of the tire at the maximum load which is typically through entry and the center of the corner, this will give us the greatest front grip.

There are several factors that cause us to use camber – strength of a-arms, play in bushings / bearings, tire size,  type and pressure, etc..  the stronger the side wall of the tires and A-arms, the less camber is needed and obviously the weaker the components, tire size and side wall flex, the more camber is needed.

Target: TT / XC / MX / Desert – 3/8” to 5/8” negative camber each side

OVAL – 3/8” to 5/8” negative camber outside tire  + ¼” positive camber inside tire

  1. Place quad on flat, level surface and weight on quad to simulate ride height.
  2. Use a couple of tie-downs to lightly hold the handlebars in the center position while you adjust camber and toe.
  3. Pick a middle point on the rear of the quad (hopefully it isn’t bent!) and measure from each side of the handlebars to your point and tighten or loosen the tie-downs to achieve center position.  You can also center the steering stops on the stem.
  4. Once in the center, place the L-square on the ground and butt up against the bottom of the tire.  Adjust upper ball joint in or out to achieve 3/8” to 5/8”.
  5. When tightening the ball joint BE CAREFUL to “clock” the ball joint so it is parallel with the top of the spindle – this will insure the maximum stroke of the ball joint and reduce the risk of binding and BREAKING the ball joint – not fun.  If continuing on with the static setup, TOE is next – keep the tie-downs on the quad.